Warren Pear Tree for Sale - Buying & Growing Guide

Planting and Care

by Mary Van Keuren | Gardener (30+ Years Experience) – last update on December 26, 2022

Planting instructions

Site your Warren Pear in soil that drains well and receives at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Unpot your sapling and tease out any encircling roots, which can girdle the tree and slowly kill it. Place the roots in a bucket of water while you dig a hole that’s as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Place the tree in the hole, spreading out the roots. Holding it upright and steady, fill in around the roots with topsoil, tamping down as you go to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly. Apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch such as bark chips around the root zone to conserve moisture and hinder weed growth but keep it from touching the trunk to avoid problems with rot.

Watering and nutrients

When newly planted, water your tree every few days. Once you see signs of robust new growth on the branches, taper back your watering to around once a week, giving the tree one to two inches of water each time. Stop supplemental watering once you’re past the first frost in the fall. Fertilize in early spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 formula, that’s designed for fruit trees. If you’ve planted your tree in good, fertile soil, you shouldn’t need to fertilize it until it starts bearing fruit.

Pollination

Unlike many fruit trees, Warren Pears are self-fertile. This means you will have a harvest even if you only have one tree. Having said that, your tree will produce fruit more profusely if you do plant several of the trees in near proximity to each other.

Pruning

Prune out dead, diseased or damaged branches whenever you see them. In early spring before bud break, do a general maintenance pruning of your tree. You want to have a single strong central leader, or branch, that extends upwards from the trunk. Prune out any competing vertical branches. Also, cut out branches that rub against each other. Lateral branches should spread out horizontally around the tree, spaced about four to five inches apart. Make slanted pruning cuts just above a bud that is facing outward.

Pests and diseases

Pests that may appear on your pear tree include scale insects, leafrollers and aphids. A healthy, well-cared-for tree should be able to fight off most infestations. Releasing beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings can also help control pests organically. The most common disease of the pear tree is fire blight, but the Warren Pear is highly resistant to this. If you see brown or black spots appear on the leaves, with areas on the stem turning black and sunken, you may have leaf blight, which can be controlled with a copper fungicide.

Harvesting

Most pears are harvested while they are still firm and then allowed to ripen further once they have been picked. Your Warren Pear’s fruit should be ready for picking in August or later, depending on your location. The fruit will start taking on a pale pink blush and will come off the tree easily. Set the fruit aside for several days and then try one to see if it’s sweet. Store your fruit in a cool location such as an unheated garage or basement. Bring them out when you’re ready to eat them and allow them to ripen for several days. They may be stored for up to several months.

Achieving maximum results

Properly pruning a fruit tree can seem complex, but it doesn’t have to be difficult. Cutting back the tree results in stronger growth and more prolific fruit. In addition to our suggestions above, here are a few more things to watch for when you prune: avoid branches that come off the main leader at an acute angle. These can split easily. The strongest branches will be those that are nearly horizontal to the ground; when pruning, keep those that are at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions. Also, remove any branches that are growing toward the center of the tree. Keeping the canopy open to light and air is one way to achieve strong growth. Prune all lateral branches back by about one-quarter of their length to encourage side branches.

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